Elephant Island

Elephant Island

Saturday, 22 November, 2008

Elephant Island

Location: The captain is negotiating rough waters with ice right now,
and the controls are being used for other purposes. Therefore, I can´t
provide you with lat and long, but we are heading South to Antarctica
from Elephant Island.

Weather: Low cloud and mist all day.

We woke up at Elephant Island today, at Point Wild, where Shackleton’s
men set up camp after their journey from the ice. This is where
Shackleton left Frank Wild in charge of his men while he went on to find
rescue. They spent many months there, eating seals and penguins.
Although we could hear a raucous new bird call in the distance – which
was the Chin Strap Penguin – we couldn’t see anything through the thick
fog. Every now and again a small break in the fog would give us a view
of snow-covered cliffs and mountain faces rising high off the water.

The Zodiacs were unloaded and we all prepared for a shore landing to see
the new penguins, but unfortunately, due to safety concerns over the
size of the swell, we were forced to switch to a Zodiac trip only. It
was very misty, and visibility was very low. The bay was full of ice –
pieces approximately 4 to 12 inches long on average. It was a strange
sensation to Zodiac over these pieces in the water, hearing and feeling
them thump the underside of the boat. This ice was also the main reason
Shackleton’s men were able to survive in this desolate spot for so long
there – it provided fresh water.

We found a few pieces of ice floating that had absolutely no bubbles –
completely clear. These types are almost the oldest pieces of ice –
they’ve been compacted and compacted until there is no longer any air.
They are, according to our Captain, the best pieces for using in drinks
“on the rocks”, so we’ll be sure to test them out this evening. The
only ice better, older – and reputed to be tastier in drinks – is black
ice. It hangs below the surface instead of floating. We will find
some.

Next we went to Cape Valentine, where Shackleton first landed, although
it was unsuitable. Today there was fresh landslide on the beach, as well
as snow and rock fall. The visibility was much better, but, although it
was a really nice day, the sea swell was just too high to even board the
Zodiacs. We are beginning to understand how horrible these seas may
have been for Shackleton and his men.

The captain then offered to sail all the way around Elephant Island, and
we were wowed by blue-white glaciers and snowy mountains for the
afternoon. Eventually, we were able to take the Zodiacs for a cruise at
Point Lookout, passing Endurance glacier along the way. We were able to
see a Chin Strap Penguin colony, as well as explore a new passageway
with Augustin at the helm of the Zodiac.

We have now set sail for the Antarctic Peninsula. We’ll be sailing for
approximately 30-40 hours.

Pat Falvey
Expedition Leader

PHOTO: Chin Strap Penguins on Elephant Island

posted by Pat Falvey on Sunday the 23rd of November, 2008 at 05:36
tagged as onboard Ushuaia, 2008, expedition

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