We are promised a steep climb to a cliff top to see nesting albatrosses. I
chicken out of the cliff top bit; it is vertiginous, and I am wearing
someone else’s wellies.they are too big, and cannot give me the purchase I
need on steep ground. I lie back in the moss, in total silence; the ship in
the bay below, and there is utter peace.

Gritvyken at last today; the Boss’s last resting place. The grave is simple;
poppies; photos, and a huge granite slab. It is a place of pilgrimage, but
as the Zodiacs unload, it becomes a circus. A tiny white Nordic church is
almost a shrine to Shackleton. At the back, a library, complete with
membership cards. They were still whaling here in the 60s. A museum, with an
over-priced gift shop; a quirky post office that opens on request – one hour
for the visitors! – We climb towards Lord Edward Point, where shackle ton’s
men have erected a memorial cross to him, and look out over the bay.

On this beautiful austral day, we can see why he loved this place. The
Zodiacs are waiting; the time here has been all too short – and we have a
visitor for dinner; the Governor of South Georgia..and of course, no matter
where you go – you will always find Irish.four Cork natives too!